Organic Gardening





  • Trees, shrubs and other permanent plants.
  • Begin warm season crops such as black-eyed peas, okra, peppers, squash, tomatoes, etc. Plant a mixture of varieties and include some open-pollinated choices after last killing freeze date.
  • Summer herbs: basil, lavender, lemongrass, lemon verbena, mint, oregano, sage, salad burnet, thyme, etc.
  • Continue to plant cool-season annuals such as petunias and snapdragons. Begin planting warm-season types.
  • Transplant as needed.


  • All planting areas with a natural organic fertilizer at approximately twenty pounds per thousand square feet (if not done in February).
  • Spray all growing plants with Garrett Juice or aerated compost tea.
  • Drench the roots of newly planted plants with Garrett Juice. It makes an excellent root stimulator.


  • Finish major pruning if necessary. No flush cuts or pruning paint.
  • Spring-flowering shrubs and vines only after they finish blooming: azaleas, camellias, Carolina jessamine, flowering quince, forsythia, Lady Banksia rose, spirea, weigela, wisteria, etc.
  • Fruit trees just before bud break.
  • Remove suckers from bases of deciduous shrubs and other plants.


  • Annuals and all dry soil areas as needed.
  • Potted plants as necessary. Add one tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to a gallon of irrigation water or one ounce of Garrett Juice.
  • Turf during drought conditions.

Pest Control:

  • INSECTS: Loopers and caterpillars: Spray Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) biological worm spray. Add one ounce of liquid molasses per gallon of spray. Release trichogramma wasps. Apply beneficial nematodes to the soil for control of thrips on roses and many other pests.
  • Pillbugs, snails, slugs: Spray garlic-pepper tea and dust around plants with a mix of hot pepper, natural diatomaceous earth and cedar flakes. Spray plant oil products for serious infestations.
  • Aphids: use a blast of water and a release of ladybugs. Add two ounces molasses per gallon for better results. 
  • DISEASES: Black spot, powdery mildew and bacterial leaf spot: Spray Garrett Juice plus a cup of skim milk per gallon of spray or spray cornmeal juice. Hydrogen peroxide (3%) mixed 50/50 with water or added to Garrett Juice is even better for bacterial diseases. PureGro is also effective.
  • Sycamore bacterial leaf scorch: Cornmeal juice or hydrogen peroxide as leaves emerge and apply the entire Sick Tree Treatment.
  • Fruit trees: Spray Garrett Juice plus garlic tea at pink bud stage and again after flowers have fallen from the trees. Spray Garrett Juice only every two weeks. See the Organic Fruit and Pecan Tree Program for more details.

Odd Jobs:

  • Turn the compost pile and keep it moist.
  • Use completed compost for bed preparation - use partially completed compost or shredded native as top-dressing mulch.
  • Mulch all bare soil but do not pile mulch on the stems and trunks of plants.
  • Feed and water the birds!

*Planting recommendations based on North Texas climate, which is zone 8. Check with your local nurseries and extension service for specific varieties and timing


USING GREENSAND IN THE GARDEN - article is from  This site has a plethora of great gardening info.

Glauconite (Greensand) | The Delaware Geological Survey


Since ancient Rome, the pigment “green earth” or “Verona green” was an important mineral for a painter’s palette. Nowadays, this mineral is better known as greensand and is a great choice for improving your soil organically.

What the Heck is Greensand

Greensand, which is sometimes called glauconite for the green-colored mineral that is its primary component, is a mined rock product that was formed millions of years ago in low-oxygen marine environments. The sediment at the bottom of that stagnant water was full of minerals including iron, potassium, silicates and trace elements. Eventually it turned into the rock called greensand. Greensand gets its name from the color, and because the rock it comes from is crumbly and easily pulverizes or naturally weathers into sand. Unlike other sand, though, greensand actually retains water and nutrients. In fact, it can hold up to one-third its weight in water.

Benefit of Adding Greensand to Your Garden

  • Helps the soil's moisture and nutrient holding capacity, so you can water and fertilize less often.
  • It improves the soil’s structure as well, such as by increasing the Cation Exchange Capacity or CEC.
  • Greensand contains the minerals it accumulated when it was formed as marine sediment, and is especially good for a slow-release source of potassium.

Applying Greensand to your Garden and Orchard

  • For DTE Greensand, apply to your garden in spring, use 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, or 1 to 2 pounds per plant. Mix it into the top 6 inches of soil.
  • After the first year’s application, you can use smaller amounts every one to two years. For most gardens, 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet is a good maintenance application.
  • To use greensand for your trees, apply 1 to 2 pounds per inch of trunk diameter, spread over the root zone.

If you’re not sure how much to add, applying the larger amount is a safe bet because greensand cannot burn your plants or over-fertilize. However, applying more than the recommended amount will not give your plants an extra boost, as it releases too slowly to do this. Because of the slow-release nature of greensand, it is not the best choice for potted plants. It will provide very little potassium during the life of your potting soil, so a quicker acting fertilizer such as Peaceful Valley’s All Purpose Liquid Fertilizer will benefit your potted plants more. If you’re looking to improve soil structure or drainage in your potting soil, greensand can help, or you might consider instead adding perlite, vermiculite, or coco peat. Use greensand to create garden worthy of an oil painting, and grow organic for life!